Every year, in late summer
and early fall, millions of monarch butterflies from the Eastern United States
and Southern Canada begin a journey of 2000 miles to the Transvolcanic Mountain
Range, located west of Mexico City. The Monarchs gat
her
there to over-winter in huge colonies of tens of millions
of butterflies, literally hanging from fir trees in clusters so thick they look
like bundles of dead leaves.
The butterflies arrive in November and remain largely inactive until undertaking the
return trip north in mid-March. How they find their way is a mystery because the monarchs
that leave Mexico in spring are at least three generations removed from those that will
make the journey back in the fall.
About 12 wintering sites have been identified in this mountain range of
central Mexico. As the area opens up to accommodate tourism, options for making
the trip have vastly improved.

The most visited sanctuary is El Rosario,
and the best place to base yourself is the town of
Angangueo, an old mining town. Seeing the
butterflies, so thick that they sometimes BREAK tree branches (!) will require
hikes of up to three hours, though it is not a strenuous hike. It is recommended
that visitors hire a local guide or travel with a guided tour group.
If you travel independently:
If you approach from Brownsville, the first important city
you will reach will be Ciudad Victoria, capital city of the state of
Tamaulipas. By continuing on south you will cross
the Tropic of Cancer at Jaumave, and at every mile
you will notice more and more butterflies which often take the attention of even
the disinterested tourist. At Ciudad Mante you will
be at the very foot of the Sierra Madre Oriental range. Just south of Ciudad
Mante the highway divides — one route goes to
Tampico on the coast; the other veers southwest into
the mountains towards Mexico City. Be sure to choose the latter route for best
butterfly viewing. This route takes you to Nuevo Morelos
and Ciudad Valles, and there is good butterfly
viewing all the way from here down to Tamasunchale.
Rosario /
Angangueo
From Mexico City, travel through
the central highlands to the picturesque mountain village of
Angangueo.
The nearby Rosario Butterfly Sanctuary offers your first
encounter with the king of the butterflies. The path is groomed, but sometimes
fairly steep, trail with convenient benches for occasional rests. At the
epicenter of millions of monarchs cover the tall
oyamel and fir trees! Mexico’s sanctuaries may be the only
places in the world where you can actually hear butterflies’ wings beating.
Many Mexicans still hold the Aztec belief that the souls of the dead are
reborn as monarchs.
Chincua / Angangueo
The
Chincua Butterfly Sanctuary offers a
second memorable experience with the monarchs. For those who choose, horses
are available for this excursion. As Carlos Gottfried, president of
Mexico’s
Monarca A.C., says, “When you stand in a monarch sanctuary, your soul
is shaken and your life is changed.” In Chincua,
we ride our horses most of the way then walk down
into the area of high butterfly density.
Piedra Herrada
Sanctuary /
Toluca
/ Mexico City
Relax in luxury at the luxurious Hotel Avandaro
Spa & Resort in Valle de Bravo.
A visit to the Piedra
Herrada Sanctuary is the newest spot opened for viewing the
monarchs. Once again, horses take us most of the way and we then walk, often
through thick vegetation, to the spot where the butterflies are located. This
area is “wilder” than the other two sanctuaries and often provides a more
remote nature experience. During your return trip to Mexico City, stop in
Toluca,
originally an Indian settlement dating back to the 13th century.
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